This website documents my progress in building a Farrier F-85SR trimaran.


union jack
Buildlog 2016

31 dec 2016

Between Christmas and new year I spend a few hours cutting, sanding and routering. Meanwhile, my CNC router cut the blanks for the rudder of Arno’s boat. I'd forgotten how much dust MDF gives.

I made a cutout for the motor mount in the hull. I gradually cut everything to size until the mount was in the correct position. The hole in the hull looks very big.

I cut away the foam on the edge of several panels, so I can fill them with putty. I the hull I sanded all recent glue edges and checked the height of the slide in table. It is a bit lower now.

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22 dec 2016

Luckily the weather was a bit warmer when I returned home. Initially I continued cutting parts from offcuts. The settee seat backs need some support at the ends as well. I could not cut all resulting parts that way so I needed to start laminating again and had to prepare the laminating table again.

For the slide in cabin table I had several options. One option was to cover the table with teak veneer, but I decided not to. I still had some 15mm corecell of the correct size, so I laminated it with 400 gr glass on both sides. Under vacuum of course.

I still needed to make a cover for the front bunk access hatch and used a mold for this. Later I found that I had taken the wrong mold, so it had to be done again.... smile

I then went on laminating more parts that still had to be made. The plans show the wash boards to made of perspex, but I did not like that. I used 7 mm thick 100 kg Corecell with 300 gr carbon on both sides. Light and stiff. The two boards still need to be cut to size. The last big laminating project was laminating the settee back supports. I still have to make a few small parts, but all the bigger parts have been made. The only really big part that is left is the cradle for the hull on the trailer. 

Before glueing the settees in place I filled the weave with filler as it is easier to do beforehand. I will not fully fair the cabin as it is not only a lot of work but also heavy.

In between I laminated the hand rails near the cabin entrance. The tubes are cutoffs of the trampoline tubes. I also strenghtened the rear of the cupboards. This is neccessary as the wash basin and the cooker will now be suspended from the cupboards.

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7 dec 2016
While in Miami I walked around in the Westmarine store, where my eye fell upon a 3 gallon/12 liter gasoline tank. Hmmm, this one could possibly fit. Luckily I have the CAD files of the boat on my laptop. I borrowed a tape measure and checked the dimensions when I got back in my hotel room. According to the drawing it should just fit. I'm happy to report that it does so in reality as well. That is one task less to do thumbs up .

Coming home, I found out that the weather had turned cold. Freezing temperatures every night. To work with epoxy I need to spend several hours in the shed to heat it up and keep it warm to give the resin time to cure. I only had one day where I could do this, but it was enough for a few glueing jobs and also for reinforcing the cutout for the anchor locker hatch.

For the rest I spent most of the time, measuring, cutting and sanding. I cut the cabin settees to size. With foam in different thicknesses I simulated cushens. I intentionally made the settees a bit too big, so I could cut them down in size until I was satisfied with the fit. For the backrest I used a sheet of OSB. You can draw something in CAD; you don't know how it turns out until you try it out for real. I think I found the right size now. The height of the mini table probably needs some fine tuning, but it won't differ much. I used a ply offcut to determine the size of the sliding table. I'm happy with the result.

Before finishing the anchor locker I have to glue the bow wing in place. Also here a lot of cutting and sanding until it fits nice and square. I did cut away quite a bit of foam and glass from the underside of the deck, so this will need some strengthening before gluing the wing in place. The deck hatch needs to be glued onto a flat surface. I cut a piece of particle board to size to glue some foam pieces onto the deck.

The mast foot of my mast is different from the F-85SR drawings. Also, I will use constrictor clutches on the mast for the halyards. So, I had to redesign it all. For the mast raising fork I designed a variation on Ian's F-9 design that he send me on my request. Excellent support, again. Last week Suplacon laser cut and welded my mast foot and the raising fork. Looks great. The stump of the fork will be extended with a rescued piece of a carbon windsurf mast.

Last week I finally picked up my trailer. Originally it was a power boat trailer, and it now has been modified to fit my trimaran.

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19 nov 2016

This week I only spent a few hours on boat building. However, I did spend two days at the METS and helped out in the Colligo stand. Fun to do and informative. I picked up a good idea to attach the stays to the mast. I was not happy with the original plan. Now I am :-)

The outboard will be mounted starboard at the stern, There are many ways to place the engine mount and almost every F-boat has a different solution. I want the outboard as far forward as possible and really like the solution of F-82R 'Swish'. I don't want to make the mount very wide, but also want to turn the engine around freely. To check this out I would need an engine, so I decided to buy one. A Yamaha FT9.9LMHX. First I made a wooden stand and used several pieces of wood to check my plan. I needed a few changes and the mount needs to be 2 cm wider than first planned. After I determind size and shape I started cutting the pieces out of offcuts. For the mount itself I had glued ply CMM offcuts together but this came out way too heavy. I still had some HD foam, so now it will be build up with HD foam and thin ply sides. A difference of almost one kg.

The tank that came with the engine does not fit through the openings under the cockpit seats. I looked around during the METS, but did not find something satisfactory. I'll make a glassfibre tank using the lost foam method.

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06 nov 2016
Again I was able to keep a good pace over a longer time, although this time it sometimes felt like a steeple chase. As the temperture had dropped quite a bit the epoxy takes longer to cure so I had to wait longer before sanding or other work. Thus, I divided my work over different jobs. The main job was laminating the trampoline tubes in place. The slow curing also had an advantage. I had carefully aligned the tubes for the front trampoline, but the next morning I found I had made a mistake gluing the starboard tube in place. It was easy to cut the tube loose and re-glue it in place. Find the difference in the first two pics smile.

The tubes are laminated to the hull with a few glass layers. The load on the tubes wants to peel the glass from the hull. So the main load is interlaminar shear of the epoxy, so it is important to do this under vacuum. . To prevent epoxy from clogging the tubes I had inserted a slightly longer PVC tube, covered with packing tape, into the tubes. Of course some epoxy would enter in between, but the idea was that the flexible PVC would make it easy to break free. At the rear this worked as advertized. At the front the tubes were stuck. I took me two hours to get them out. I then decided to laminate the ends of the forward tubes by hand and run the tackytape over the ends. This worked OK, but now I had leakage along the tube when trying to apply vacuum. I blocked these off as good as I could and ended up with just above 0.5 bar suction with both pumps running. Enough for a nice laminate.
The long tubes in the middle were easier to do. These had room to stick out, so I didn't worry about any epoxy getting into the ends. Getting a good vacuum did require some time as the bags were very long and I worked on both sides simultiously. These are the tubes that I had butt joined with some glass tape a few weeks ago. And it is there where some epoxy had entered the tubes over a length of about 6 cm. I found out when I couldn't get the PVC tube to slide in completely when checking. I hope it's not too much epoxy and that it is on the bottom of the tube. I can't see it and I won't find out until I've cut holes for rigging the trampoline...

I was happy with my fairing of the port aft part on the hull. That allowed me to glue the sheave block in its place. Next was the flag staff, which will also hold the rear navigation light. Then I glued a triangular extention for the cockpit seat in place. I had not planned to do so, but the aft part of the hull still was a bit too flexible. The cockpit seats do not extend as far aft as on Ian Farriers drawings. I brought them forward because of the water ballast control and motor mount. This solution brought enough stiffnes, so I'm happy.

The other small projects that I picked up:
- For the tiller I made a bearing plate. The underside of the tiller and the top of this plate will be covered with teflon strips. This will make smooth rotation possible.
- I faired the rudder cassette. Especially the side with the control horn was difficult to get right. There are still a few rought spots, but I will work on those with final finishing filler after applying primer.
- Forward at the bow I started work on the anchor locker lid.
- Earlier this year I experimented with an alternative to steps into the cabin, which I like very much. As the plank will almost be 1m20 long, it needs to be very stiff. To prevent the core from buckling I glued off cuts from bulkheads in vertical strips and then used my router to get a smooth finish. It is allready very stiff with al those small vertical glass strips.
- At the foot of the mast I want rotation limiter. It needs to fit in a carbon tube that goes into the mast, so I covered the aluminium bar with packing tape, rolled a layer of glass around it, cut it through to release it from the bar and sealed the cut with filler. It now fitted nicely and moved freely. I sealed the ends of the glass with ductape and rolled the tube with carbonfibre. The result: completely stuck. I tried everything, put it in the freezer, in the oven. Not even the hint of movement. So, I have to try a different solution .....
- I also made preperations for building the backsupports for the settees in the cabin. The top is formed by a PVC tube.

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7 oct 2016
When my regular job does not interrupt work on the boat, progress is good and I kept momentum after the previous update. The aft CMMs still needed reinforcement. It is a slightly bigger job than up front, as the cockpit seats also need extra strength between the CMM and the traveler. The compression forces of the beams need to be led to the traveler. The holes for the upper folding strut were a bit difficult to reach and close off, but it worked out well.
With the CMMs finally finished I started work on several jobs at the same time. I glued the mast foot block in place and reinforced it under vacuum. The rudder mount also needed strengthening. When that was ready I cut the hull aft edge back to its final shape. To prevent damage I also decored the foam with a router, finger sander and dremel. I used a mixture of epoxy with aerosil, cotton flakes and micro balloons for filling. A hard and strong combination. Now I finally was able to glue the rudder control horn in place and laminate it under vacuum. Port aft I cut a hand hold into the foam. After decoring I filled it with above mentioned mixture, but also some UD glass. I don't want to end up still having to fair all parts at the end of the build, so I also started fairing the rudder cassette and some spots on the boat.

The bow tube was waiting to be glued in place since last march. As everything had been measured and marked, it was a quick job. Several reinforcements needed laminating and it was difficult to reach the narrow bow. After closing of the gap on the top I laminated the final layers under vacuum. After curing I was a bit nervous about the thin glass layer protecting the G10 tube for three years now. It had done its job. The inside was clean. No epoxy had entered :-)

The mounting tube for the trampolines can be either PVC or glass. The PVC tubes are a bit weak and wobbly. Long ago I had already ordered glass tubes. For the mid part they are too short, so I needed to join two tubes. Regular PVC tubes are an exact fit into the tubes, which makes it easy to align. To glue the tubes to the hull, I need to force them to follow the hull lines with straps and the rear tubes are now place. That would have been an easier with PVC tubes...

In between all of this I also bought a nice second hand aluminium trailer.

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21 sept 2016
Lately, my build progress is very erratic. I work 80% in my job and until a few month ago I had an 18 day 9-on/9-off schedule. That has changed. I now work 9-on/6-off, but have every fifth rotation off. So, in between rotations I have less time to build, but some extra time at the end. At this moment I've got a boat building holiday, so I make good progress as well.

Lamination work on the daggerboard case is not ready yet. It still needed glassing to the hull. I did that on the cabin floor and the deck. The reinforcements underneath the deck will have to wait until the boat is inverted again and the same applies for the hull bottom.

The forward CMM is now also laminated on the outside. It is a tricky job, with a lot of corners. I can't imagine how someone can do it without vacuum. No matter how thorough you work, there will always be a few spots where the laminate will lift. With vacuum you need to use a large bag, so there is no bridging in the corners where epoxy will fill up the void in the bag.

For the anchor roller I had already made a mold. I now laminated the bracket in one go, including the foam core. I still have to machine the aluminum shafts for the rollers. For the mast foot I used an oak block. I routered it to size, giving the mast foot the right angle.
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7 sep 2016
This summer the build pause was a bit longer than usual. It was nice to pick up some energy, sail on my cat and go on holiday with my family. I was itching to go building again, but don't have much to show yet. The daggerboard case is ready to be laminated to the deck. The same applies to the CMM outside parts. Also, I made a cover for the water ballast control lines.

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9 july 2016
With all laminating work around the forward beam bulkhead ready, it was time to fit the daggerboard case. In the build book this step is done much earlier, when the hulls halves are joined. From other builders I heard that the case was blocking access when placing the forward CMM in the forward beam bulkhead and making it hard to laminate the reinforcements. So, instead I rebated the foam in the outside of the hull where the case had to be placed. With the daggerboard case fitted now, I can see that it can be quite in the way and I'm glad I delayed its placing.

As I did not have to take any measurements it could just cut the hull at the rebates and fit the case. First I glued the daggerboard case bulkhead in place, followed by the case itself. The control lines for the daggerboard are running slightly different from the plan. Some time ago I made an angled insert that will take two stand up blocks. This has several advantages; The up line will pull the board up to a higher position, it is easier to pull up the board completely or take it out and the blocks will barely protrude above the deck.

The case bulkhead needed a number of glass tapes for strengthening. The forces of the daggerboard on the case will be led forward and sideways. Access was quite tight, but it worked out nicely.

In between I also continued work on the tiller. To glue on the control arm I placed both parts exactly perpendicular. Then I laminated some extra carbon on under vacuum. The tiller is now finished. The next small job on the side is the cover for the water ballast control lines.

On a few days humidity was too high again for epoxy work. I used the time to sand back the bog on the tiller. I also worked on an alternative for the steps into the cabin. This one occupies less space, but its length asks for a stronger, and heavier, layup. I also stated on a mold for the anchor roller.

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24 june 2016
Only a few small jobs remain to be done on the cockpit and I am ready to laminate the outside of the CMM area. First the work on the forward CMM had to be finished. I had finished all preparations, so I started laminating straight away. Again I laminated all reinforcements in one go, without using vacuum as it is too difficult to reach. After curing I cut out the middle part of the CMM. This creates a lot of space, although after fitting the daggerboard case I will lose much of that space.

The inside of the passage needs some finishing with several layers of glass tape. In a way a sort of ring frame is created. The frames that I used to close the CMM cove were made quite some time ago. This allows me to continue progress on the hull now.

The warm humid weather of the last weeks makes my air dryer work overtime. I need to keep the relative humidity under 80%. As the shed is insulated it is relatively cool. Disadvantage is that the moisture levels tend to creep up. Even though it is warm enough I cheat a little by heating the shed with an electric heater. This also lowers the relative humidity.

With all the remaining bits of epoxy I have now faired the tiller. It is ready to mate with the control tab. I added almost 100 grams with the filler.

Another F-85SR hit the water recently. Through the years I exchanged a lot of ideas with the builder. His boat looks fantastic. Congratulations Phill.

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09 june 2016

While cutting carbon cloth for laminating the traveler bridge top, I found out that I had forgotten to laminate an extra layer on the underside. Time to get the mirror back to work. It's a difficult spot to reach, but in the end it was easier than I thought.

In between I laminated the tiller. I used three layers of carbon sleeve. The highest load on the tiller is not from steering loads, but happens when someone accidentally sits on the tiller. That is why I laminated some UD carbon near the pivot point, in between the layers. After laminating I wrapped the tiller in peelply and packing tape. Weight after laminating was 1100 grams. A bit heavier than I had hoped. Maybe the third carbon sleeve was a bit overkill. On the plus side: Now I don't have to worry about a broken tiller. Every bit of left over epoxy is now used for bogging the tiller.

After laminating the top of the traveler bridge I laminated all outer edges of the cockpit seats. 

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29 may 2016

After some measuring and sanding, I glued the cockpit seat fronts in place. After some more sanding I taped the rear edges with glass tape. A tricky job, as you have to work blind, by touch. I cheated a bit by smuggling a mirror out of our bathroom. I was really proud of myself, as I returned it free of epoxy smile. And then time ran out ....

13 may 2016

It has been more than a month since I posted my last update. During simulator training I did not have any time to work on the boat. After completion I made my first flights. After all the studying it was great to fly again.

Earlier this week I finally got to mixing epoxy again. First I finished a few smaller jobs. The foam parts for the tiller are glued together and it is now ready for laminating. I also filled a few edges with bog. The choice for interior plan B does mean some extra work.

All lamination work under the cockpit seats is ready. I glued in two extra panels which close off the storage space that has access from the cabin. I also glued in some thru hulls. Most of these pipes are for electrical wiring. At the rear the stick out above the cockpit floor. Important when a wave enters the cockpit. This is not needed in the closed off part.

The cockpit seat fronts still need some trimming. Then I can glue them in place as well. The cockpit looks a lot better now smile.

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5 apr 2016
To work out where to place the webasto, I made a carton model. My first choice was a bit cramped, but I eventually found a good spot under the cockpit floor where it is not in the way.  I did doubt whether to use the drawers anyway, with a build in cooker, the Origo A200, but decided it would all weigh too much. As I can not use the Wallas it is time to start being weight conscious again. To end the discussion with myself I cut out the wash basin.

A dutch F-boat sailor suggested I place the anchor on the hammerhead on the bow and supplied some pictures. I still have to work it out, but it looks like a good idea.

There still is not enough time for epoxy work, so I keep on doing other things. I continued work on the pop top by drilling the holes for the arms. The fit is good.

The tiller fits well and looks good I think, although it needs to be a bit higher to handle nicely. I had made an extra part to use as a guide for cutting the foam.

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24 mar 2016

Working an hour here or there does not give a lot of progress. Working with epoxy is not possible as the shed has to warm up, which takes at least two hours. Work on the boat consists of a bit of sanding and cutting at the moment.

Under the cockpit seats I sanded the laminate and made some preparations for the last jobs. I also went to work on the kitchen drawers. I forced myself to step back and have a thorough review. I want an open and spacious cabin with preferably only one fuel type for heating and cooking. After some more testing of the drawers I found the exhaust needed better fixation. The system still worked, but I kept having doubts.

I like the KISS principle. Still, I often make my solutions too complicated. It happened here as well. Time for some decisions. I did try out the Wallas in a fixed spot, but it takes too much space. So, contrary to what I thought two weeks ago, it is better to step back to plan B. It is better to stop half way than to persevere in something which might be an error.

Ian prescribes a large radius on the bow. I did not do that as I thought a straight bow would be easier for marking out the bow sprit, which I did some time ago. That worked quite well. You cut away such a big part, that a radius does not make sense anyway. Now I only had to cut along the lines with my multitool. To have good access to the pin of the forward stay, I made an angled filler piece. Looks good, I think.

Now the time came to try out the anchor mock-ups. All four fit, although the Rocna had to sit on its side and is hard to get out. With the bowsprit ( temporary ) in place it got more difficult. The Vulcan can be taken out with the bowsprit retracted, which is nice.

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17 mar 2016

The anchor locker is quite narrow as the main hull has a pointy bow. Not every anchor will fit and the bow pole has to pass through the anchor locker as well. Choosing the right anchor is difficult anyway. There are so many choices and everyone has a different opinion as there is not one anchor that is superior in all sea bottom types. As a trimaran has a lot of windage, you need a good anchor that will set quickly. An anchor is not only used for leisure. It's also your emergency brake if the outboard decides to quit just when you are on a lee shore. In the ijselmeer the bottom is mainly soft mud, which I need to take into account, as all anchors have less holding power there. The holding area of the flukes becomes important there.

It is generally recommended for multihulls to go one size up compared to a monohull of the same length. At the same time you want to minimize the weight so far upfront. Several people are happy anchoring with a smaller anchor, but I'll stick to the advice and aim to use an anchor of 8-10kg with a fluke area of around 800 cm².

In the last ten years different international sailing publications have tested various anchors. The conclusions are comparable, with a few anchors that stand out and I narrowed the choice down to 4 of which I would like to know if they will fit into the anchor locker. That is why I made a few mock-ups of carton and wood.

- The Rocna. This is a roll bar type anchor with a very good reputation and rates very high in the tests. The only disadvantage of roll bar anchors seems to be that the roll bar does not work properly in soft mud. 10 kg and 795cm²

- The Spade A80. This is a concave anchor with a ballasted point that does well in all tests. The steel version is 15kg, but the aluminum version is a lot lighter. There are reports that the shank is not very strong. Very expensive. 7 kg and 800cm²

- The Vulcan. This is a new anchor developed by Rocna. Has not been tested yet by the magazines. Reports on social media are positive. It is a concave anchor like the spade. 9kg and 730cm²

- The Plastimo Kobra 1. This is a collapsible plow anchor, so it takes up less space. Holding power according to the tests is less than the Rocna and the Spade, but the difference gets less in a softer bottom. Every advantage has its downside: The need to fold out the anchor takes time. You can't just throw it overboard. 10kg and +/- 800cm²

Of course there are several more possibilities, like the Manson Supreme ( comparable to the Rocna ) or the Manson Boss. The Boss is a new, light anchor with a large fluke area. The Ultra is a stainless steel anchor which did very well in the Fortress Chesapeake Bay soft mud tests, but is very expensive. The Fortress anchor has very good holding power and is light, but does not fit into the locker. Also I've heard some accounts of the anchor flying under water when the boat is being blown backwards.

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9 mar 2016
After the previous update I started with my conversion training from the MD11 to the 747. I'm pretty much occupied with studying but I try to escape from behind the computer based training an hour every day and spend some time in the shed. No time for big jobs, but there are plenty of things that I can do in an hour.

Before I glue the kitchen drawers under the cockpit seats I want to be sure that my plan ( using the flexible exhaust for the wallas ) works. This uncertainty was a weak point in my design. Of course there is a plan B, but ....  That is why I took some left over wood parts and made a construction to try out the design.

Last month I made glass fibre blocks from the glass sheets that I had left over from the closing the CMM gaps. I glued these on the back of the side plates and tapped M4 thread in these. Now I don't have to work with nuts in a place that is hard to reach. I had to play a bit with the length of the exhaust, but sliding in and out is smooth now and hardly needs any force. The slides have a friction latch that keep the drawer in. Fully extended it wants to pull in about an inch, so I need something to hold the drawer out, which I planned to do anyway. Test successful, plan B is not needed smile

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28 feb 2016

The lamination work on the inside of the aft CMM is ready. Initially I wanted to do this under vacuum. It is a very tight workspace though with hardly enough room to attach the vacuum bag. Before laminating the CMM on the outside, I first have to close the cockpit seat fronts. Before I can do that I have to finish all jobs below the cockpit seats. The first item started was a support web for the flagstaff that I will glue in place later. I also glued the traveler bridge in place.

On the forward CMM I continued with some sanding and I also laminated reinforcements in place on the upper cove.

In between the editors of the dutch online magazine Zilt came to visit and wrote a very nice piece in Zilt 119.

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14 feb 2016
Closing the bottom gaps was quickly done. Thereafter followed a process of filling, sanding and finishing, which took more time than I thought it would. With the low outside temperature it takes two days before I can sand the epoxy. If you start sanding too quickly the epoxy heats up and starts to gel as the curing process is not finished yet. The CMM's are highly loaded and sharp edges and turns are not allowed for the laminate that has to tame these forces. On the forward CMM I also had to fill the area above the gunwale. Here the forces are led to the roof. Now the big holes in the hull are closed again.

Between the filling and sanding I also did some smaller jobs. Before I can close up the cockpit seats all jobs beneath have to be completed. The kitchen cabinets are drawers that fit underneath the cockpit seats. On the port side the Wallas cooker and heater will be placed. It's a tight fit, but everything goes where I had planned without problems. The connection between the exhaust and the Wallas is a flexible stainless hose. It's a bit stiffer than I had hoped, but will allow me to go ahead as planned. To protect the surrounding panels against heat the exhaust hose will have a glass reinforced silicone sleeve. Around the exhaust and a few other places I will apply some heat resistant Ceramic paint.

With the tiller mounted on the rudder you are forced to sit behind the traveler, or transfer the tiller extension behind the main sheet each time to change tack. That is why I will make a remote tiller which will run underneath the traveler bridge. I had my router cut a prototype for the tiller in wood. When the traveler is fitted I can check the dimensions before I make the carbon version.

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28 jan 2016
After cutting the holes for the forward CMM I slid this one in place as well. To align the CMM's I made wooden frames with bolts for fine adjustment. To fixate horizontally I hot glued blocks of foam to the peel ply on the hull. After initial rough alignment I made carton templates for closing the gaps between the CMM's and the hull. I pulled the CMM's out again and glued on 2mm thick glass ( 5 x 400 gm ) plates which I had cut to size.

As it was freezing outside the temperature in the shed drops quickly when I leave and it takes a long time for the epoxy to cure enough, so I also did some other jobs in between. I glued the water ballast vent pipes in place. These also serve as guides for the control lines. Also I glued the hatch opening side pieces in place. I made these some time ago.

After the epoxy had cured I replaced the CMMs. With my laser level and laser distance meter leveling and aligning was easy. I checked the forward CMM to be perpendicular to the hull by measuring to the bow. The fit to the beam bulkhead was perfect. After a few hours of work everything was aligned within a few mm. A final check, just to be sure, and I was able to glue the CMMs to the hull. The glass pieces close all gaps nicely. Only on the underside there still is a gap. I also made fill pieces for this, but time ran out before I could glue them in place.

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12 jan 2016
Under the front bunk there are two compartments. The front compartment is watertight. The aft compartment can be used for storage of light items, so I painted it. Access was easy with the hull still on its side. In between I also started preparations for gluing the bunk floor into the hull. I had split the bunk floor into three parts, but found out that the aft two parts could fit through the cabin entry together with millimeters to spare. That was nice as it allowed me to glue them together and build the hatch support on the laminating table. Doing this inside the boat is a lot more hassle.

To get into the cabin from the cockpit I need a small ladder. I first made some temporary steps. This way I can check if the planned height and size of the steps is to my satisfaction or if it needs to change.

When I made the Central Mounting Modules ( Oct '13), I found out I had made them a bit too small. I then solved this by adding ply on the outside. For the rear CMM no problem, but looking at the laminating schedule on the forward CMM I felt a bit uneasy, so I replaced the ply there by carbon reinforced putty.

After turning the boat upright again, laminating the bunk floor in place was a piece of cake as I had made ridges in the hull to support the bunk.

The front hatch in the main hull is optional, but you need to make a hole there anyway as there is no other way to access the front side of the forward CMM. I already bought a D-shaped Gebo hatch so I cut the hole just inside the required cutout. The use of laser distance meter and laser level is ideal for preparing the CMM cutouts and makes leveling the hull easy work. The vertical cuts are made along the projected laser line. Still, I stood back a few seconds before putting the multitool to work. The aft CMM is temporary in its place now and when I was ready to start cutting for the forward CMM time ran out.

I rearranged the history of my blog. As I passed the 5 year mark I thought it better to split the history in yearly parts. Each page is a bit larger now though. Just before the end of 2015 the first home build F85SR made its first splash. Congratulations Clive!

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