This website documents my progress in building a Farrier
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update 15 june 2017
The last lamination job on the
hull was the mast support under the deck. Several layers of carbon on a
piece of HD foam were glued together under vacuum. This allowed me to
start filling and fairing. Inside the hull I only fill the glassfibre
weave. The woven cloth that I used has quite a course structure and I
don't want to paint over it directly.
On the outside I'm using a
different method than used on the floats and the beams. A few other
dutch builders used flexicat filling boards with good results. Arno
allowed me to borrow them. The idea is to first sand away any epoxy
runners and fill suspect 'low' areas. After that large areas are filled
with the filling boards. At first I thought the large filling board
would be awkward to work with. It turned out to be easier to work with
than the smaller one. As my hull was already quite fair, the boards left only a
minimal amount of fairing mix. I'm using 50% slow hardener ( which is
thinner and allows a much longer working time ). As a filler I use a
2+1 mix of white and brown microballoons. To get the right consistency
I mix the volume of filler with the epoxy in a ratio of 4 + 1. This
gives a filler that is easy to apply and sand.
sanding I found out I still had some 'low' spots. It's not a good idea
to just fill these, as the edges of the new fill will stand out and are very difficult to get fair. So, I
applied a second layer with the flexicats.This took less filler than the first one. Now I have to wait until I
have time to start sanding again. After that I can turn the hull on
it's side for the top en bottom parts.
In between I also tackled
some other tasks. For the Airtop 2000 I made a bracket which will allow
the heater to hang below the cockpit floor. I also made a new exhaust
hole, much further aft, just in front of the outboard. I also started
filling and fairing other parts, so I can use any left over filler. In
the pop top I had made some holes for instruments. I just found out
that the new Triton 2 has square cut outs..... Time to fill these up
until I know what I'll use.
previous update I again
got flu like complaints. It took quite a while before a doctor was able
to find out what was causing my illness. I finally got some medication
and this allowed me to get back to work on the boat. I laminated the
settee backs and the anchor locker bulkhead inside the cabin. After
that I turned the hull on its side and laminated the bottom of the
daggerboard case. It's a perfect fit. I also made holes for the bailers
that serve the water ballast tank.
Finally I turned the boat
upside down. I still had a few laminating jobs to do. I now laminated
the daggerboard case to the cabin roof. A lot easier to do this way. In
between I finished some small jobs and started fairing the engine
mount. One last laminating job to go in the main hull.
been quite a while since my previous update. Returning home mid
February it was freezing
cold again. Time to pick up some more jobs that do no require epoxy
work. The parts for foil control of the float foils had been waiting
for further work for a long time already. First I had my router cut a
few test pieces to check the fit. I found out that the thickness of the
foils is not constant, so I made them fit to the thickest part.
the boom I started cutting the goose neck bracket. I need to have new
brackets welded on to be able to bolt the boom onto the goose neck. The
bracket at the end of the boom will be replaced with a carbon part. I
made a mold for this.
The tube for the mast raising installation needed a line catcher. It
still needs finishing.
they made carbon tubes for my trampoline. They have internal
reinforcement where needed. For the ends I still need to make aluminium
brackets. These are needed to bolt the tube onto the beams.
the temperature started rising again after a few days, I got caught by
the flu, which
put me down for quite a while. I'll be slowly picking up some work
was still freezing when I
returned home I first started with metal drilling, turning, cutting and
routering. The SS pins for the folding system still needed some work. I
also made several aluminium parts for the anchor roller, the mast
raising system and the bow sprit. Finally I made some prototypes of the
conical nuts that I want to use under the cabin deck for
In the shed I started work on the boom. It is a
recycled part of a Nacra 20 carbon mast and I had to cut off the mast
groove. The resulting edge needs some reinforcement. I'll reuse part of
the hardware of the much too heavy C-28 boom that I had picked up. I
need to do some work on those parts though.
Earlier I had problems when laminating a tube around a mold. Through Arno
I got a tip from Rob
to use molten candle wax to create a thin layer around the mold that
will melt when heated and help to release the part. I needed to make a
fitting tube for the mast raising yoke to fit into the windsurf mast.
The method worked well. The part has a bit of play though. I had
carefully sanded the wax smooth but I think it can be a bit thinner
In the cabin I glued the mini table in place and I
laminated an eye for a lifeline under the cabin entry. Work on the seat
backs is progressing and lastly I laminated the step to the
cockpit. I had calculated the one layer of UD would be enough, but
tripled that. Now the plank feels indestructible but still is very
front of the boat I glued
the bow wing in place. For strength it still needs to be taped. I also
cut the anchor roller bracket to size. For the anchor locker I drilled
and filled the holes for the hinges.
In the cabin I started
taping the settees. I only tape the outside edges. The cupboards are in
place now. I will not tape these as they are not subject to any loads.
Under the starboard cabinet I laminated two hooks. For the cabin
entrance I laminate U-shaped profiles and glued them into the cabin
sides. The washboards fit nicely, but are still a bit oversize. For the
doorstep I made a profiled piece of oak.
The motor mount had been glued together, but still needed strengthening
of the corners. I did this under vacuum. Then I glued it in position.
After curing I carefully lifted the engine in place; All glue joints
still need strengthening with glass tape. I got a good fit and the
engine is able to turn to its stops